And jail time - or worse - for someone else. Like a hospital stay - or worse - for someone. It can easily lead to unpredictable, and infinitely regrettable, results. ' I always feel safe in moving him up because I know that he's preparing himself to handle bigger work. I would simply reinforce it a bit by adding: Always be MASSIVELY circumspect with alleged "fun" of this type. in the last year and he's made good each time. Nothing I can control, you understand - strictly a medical condition! At least you've included a fairly good warning and disclaimer with your 'ible. first, it repeatedly slams the device against the skull of the perpetrator until one or the other of those two offending objects lies shattered in tiny pieces all over the cond, it dials the police and files assault charges. Then again, if a medical condition is "hidden", it's kinda tough to tell who has one and who doesn't, so you're pretty much gambling with your victim's health based upon PURE GUESSWORK, ain't'cha? My "hidden tic", for example, takes the following form: Whenever I'm handed something which delivers an unexpected and unnecessary electrical jolt to me, the hand holding it at the time has two instantaneous and automatic reactions. Of course, one has to be EXTREMELY careful NEVER to apply such "comedy" to anyone with a hidden medical condition, like a cardiac pacemaker, a muscle-spasm-relaxing TENS machine, epilepsy, Tourette's or any other sort of "tic", plus a veritable raft of other situations which could be severely aggravated by the sudden introduction of what amounts to a small bolt of lightning. This should strengthen the components by holding them firm in place. The last step is to fold some paper around the circuit, and fill with copious amounts of hot glue. This should leave 2 leads exposed, which will later be attached to the shocker pads. 1 goes to the potentiometer, 1 goes to battery positive, and the other goes to battery negative, and continues on out. I also chose to add a AAA battery holder and a 1M Ohm tuning potentiometer to adjust the voltage output. To do this, desolder the 5 components seen here in my free schematic diagram and solder the components directly to themselves as depicted. The circuit needs to conceal inside the deck, so it has to be made smaller. To avoid getting shocked, use a piece of metal to short out the 2 leads on the capacitor, as seen in the pictures. You'll probably get shocked you if you take it out bare handed. This board drives the camera flash and charges an electrolytic capacitor with 330 volts. Opening the case, you'll find a circuit board. If you want to follow the next steps exactly, you can look for the model number on the outside of the casing. No particular reason for this brand, it's just the one I picked first. For this project, I had a FujiFilm Camera, model #1A2L1701. They usually have a whole bin full of disposable cameras ready to be shipped for recycling, and I get them free each time I ask. I started by heading to a local drug store and stopping at the photo center.
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